After finishing Debra's panties two weeks ago, I was asked to sew up another school uniform shirt. A shirt that normally would take about 3 hours (tops!) took most of last week to sew. Debra has decided that she no longer needs a nap. Most sewing now takes place after her bedtime. Unfortunately, I'm not a night owl. I go to bed fairly early myself.
My next project is the Schooldays Jacket and Coat by Oliver & S. This project has been queued since October of last year. I'm using a brown printed corduroy by Patty Young, a hot pink marbled quilting cotton for the lining, and a lime green cotton batik for the insulated vest.
I'm going at this coat slightly backwards and starting off with the insulated vest.
WARNING: If you choose not to buy pre-quilted fabric and you are making the insulated lining with sleeves - you need twice as much lining fabric as called for. The size 2 calls for 1 yard insulated fabric - you need 2 yards if making your own insulated fabric. Plus another 1/2 yard if making your own bias tape.
I really wanted to make a full insulated lining. Two things helped my change my mind: We live in Louisiana - it seldom gets cold enough here to really need a full lining; and, I didn't have enough fabric (see above warning).
I drew lines on the bias of the fabric 1" apart, sandwiched two pieces of lightweight batting between and started quilting. I used a 3.5mm stitch length. And more than one spool of thread.
TIP: Save your back! Instead of standing over your fabric marking lines for an hour, either purchase pre-quilted fabric; have the quilt store quilt the fabric for you or invest in this kind of presser foot (and then you'll only need to mark one line).
To make the shoulder seams invisible on the vest, I ripped out the quilting to just outside the seam allowance (1/2") on the front and to 1" on the back shoulders.
Sewed the front and back shoulder seams together, making sure not to catch the back lining.
I then graded the seams to reduce bulk.
And folded the back shoulder lining over and under - covering the front shoulder seam line. I then stitched-in-the-ditch from the right side. I did re-quilt in places near the shoulder seams.
The vest is finished with a handmade bias-binding (5/8" finished width), with the elastic loops attached in three places on each front and 1 loop at center back neckline.
I really like this so far - I've been pleased with each one of the Oliver & S patterns that I've made so far.
My next project is the Schooldays Jacket and Coat by Oliver & S. This project has been queued since October of last year. I'm using a brown printed corduroy by Patty Young, a hot pink marbled quilting cotton for the lining, and a lime green cotton batik for the insulated vest.
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| In this picture, I've already pre-quilted my lining fabric. |
WARNING: If you choose not to buy pre-quilted fabric and you are making the insulated lining with sleeves - you need twice as much lining fabric as called for. The size 2 calls for 1 yard insulated fabric - you need 2 yards if making your own insulated fabric. Plus another 1/2 yard if making your own bias tape.
I really wanted to make a full insulated lining. Two things helped my change my mind: We live in Louisiana - it seldom gets cold enough here to really need a full lining; and, I didn't have enough fabric (see above warning).
I drew lines on the bias of the fabric 1" apart, sandwiched two pieces of lightweight batting between and started quilting. I used a 3.5mm stitch length. And more than one spool of thread.
TIP: Save your back! Instead of standing over your fabric marking lines for an hour, either purchase pre-quilted fabric; have the quilt store quilt the fabric for you or invest in this kind of presser foot (and then you'll only need to mark one line).
To make the shoulder seams invisible on the vest, I ripped out the quilting to just outside the seam allowance (1/2") on the front and to 1" on the back shoulders.
Sewed the front and back shoulder seams together, making sure not to catch the back lining.
 |
| You can't really tell that I've sewn the seams together - but I have! |
I then graded the seams to reduce bulk.
And folded the back shoulder lining over and under - covering the front shoulder seam line. I then stitched-in-the-ditch from the right side. I did re-quilt in places near the shoulder seams.
To keep your elastic loops (used to button the vest into the jacket/coat) from looking like this:
Tape the elastic to a piece of invisible tape and then place tape on the fabric so that the elastic matches up to the marked spot on fabric. You can sew right over the tape without it affecting your needle (well, there may be some glue residue but not much).
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| This photo shows the vest with the elastic loops. This is the side that will face the lining of the coat. |
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